By: Joleen Riley-Hawkins
When the opportunity for a fam trip to Lower Zambezi came up, I immediately jumped at it. Besides the love for travel, experiencing properties firsthand always makes a huge difference to product knowledge. On arrival at Jeki Airstrip at 15:40 hours I was met by Esau from Kutali Camp. On the vehicle, I was joined by a sociable and seasoned lady traveller who was also headed to Kutali. Shortly afterwards we started off on our leisurely 1.5 hour drive to camp. We enjoyed the scenic views of the escarpment and stopped to admire a perfectly arranged hippo skeleton, which appeared to have died of natural causes. Twenty minutes into our drive, we encountered an abundance of game: two very old buffalo bulls resting in the shade, elephants, kudu, waterbuck, impala, and fish eagles. Two elephant sightings, in particular, displayed the animals' intelligence and family bonds, which really tugged at my heart strings – Momma elephant with her 3 young ones digging on the river bank for fresh water. The other was big brother elephant pulling down branches of a Winterthorn tree so that they were within reach of his smaller siblings. Just 10 minutes from camp, we spotted a lioness taking a siesta in a trench, she clearly needed the nap after safely tucking her cubs into their hideout. It was a great way to end our afternoon and we were more than happy to head on to camp to relax. After about 3-minutes drive, we came across more cats: two lion brothers with full bellies, napping. Not to be outdone- a little hooded vulture was next to one of the sleeping giants, feasting on their droppings. Yuck!
In all my years of booking safaris, this city girl never imagined herself sleeping in a tent, let alone surviving the night. My 4 nights, 4 camps adventure began with Classic Zambia’s Kutali Camp – a bush camp! After a very productive game drive, we arrived at camp at 17:45 hours to a warm welcome of song and dance from Jess and the team. After the safety briefing, I was escorted to my tent – a spacious “room” with charming lanterns strategically placed around the tent and bathroom. A zipper on the inside of the tent led to an open-air bathroom shaded by a Winterthorn tree. The bathroom has a flush toilet, a sink with running water, and a bucket shower (a first for me) equipped with all the amenities—shampoo, conditioner, and shower gel. The bathroom for me was a wild, weird and wonderful experience.😊 Kutali is a blend of adventure and comfort. Dinner was a relaxed affair as everyone shared their stories around the communal dining table. The camp is deliberately without Wi-Fi, which allowed me to unwind and drift off to sleep while enjoying nature's orchestra of sounds. I must say, Kutali Camp’s ginger shot and hot oats porridge in the early morning were fantastic, they really got me ready for the day ahead – thank you Henrietta.
After the morning game drive with Kutali Camp, I headed to Amanzi for a site visit and lunch enroute to Anabezi Camp. Just before midday, it was quite hot so the cold drink and light lunch of salads, chips and chicken at Amanzi hit the right spot. Amanzi, located close to the riverbanks, offers a serene ambiance with stunning views of the scenery and wildlife coming down to drink at the river. While I was there, I got to see three elephants crossing the river to get to the lush greenery on a nearby island. One could spend the whole day enjoying the "bush TV" from the comfort of the hammock strung up on the room's verandah.
Next, I was off to Anabezi with a sociable guide Robert from Amanzi who looks after most of our clients that stay there and is wonderful! I was grateful for the short 5 minutes drive between the camps as the heat was quite intense. After settling into my large spacious room which was equipped with a mini bar, tea/coffee station, hair dryer, inside bathtub and outdoor shower, I made myself a cup of coffee, switched on the fan and sat down to read a book. After a long morning in the sun, I decided to forgo the afternoon drive and instead relax in the Mushika Lounge, located at the far end of the camp. Mushika Lounge is a charming hideaway with a waterhole just ahead. While I was there I spotted elephants, impalas, waterbucks, and baboons. At about 17:30, Edna, a lovely hostess escorted me to my room. As we turned onto the boardwalk to my room there was a large grey rump at my door – an elephant was casually standing there eating. We went back down the boardwalk and a housekeeper nearby clapped for the elephant to leave. In the safety of the room, I saw the elephant known as Toothpick, walk round the front of my balcony. Dinner was amazing, from the starter to the dessert – the hostesses and waiters regularly checking if there was anything else they could do. Anaabezi if full of amazing and warm people.
It’s day 3 and I’m safely strapped in a life jacket. Off I go with Chris from Anabezi on 15-minutes boat ride to Old Mondoro for a site visit. Along the way we saw lots of hippos and different bird species. At Old Mondoro I received a warm welcome from Nambula, Madeline and Mark and was handed a very refreshing cold lime and soda – my favourite! We made a quick visit to one of the chalets – Lovebird Tent – navigating around a naughty elephant who didn’t seem to know which direction he wanted to go. The entire chalet including the bath, shower and toilet have amazing views of the lagoon below. Whilst in the room, we spotted an elephant giving himself a mud bath.
A 20-minutes boat ride upstream took me to Lolebezi. Zambian hospitality is full of good vibes and always blows me away! At the dock, a team of seven including the chef, sang a heartwarming welcome song. I sat in one of the seating areas, all geared up for the next safety talk. What a lovely surprise when Christie, the spa therapist came to give me a hand massage – wow, very relaxing. If you’re a safari enthusiast who enjoys modern comforts and all the extra touches, this is the place for you—complete with amenities like a Nespresso machine in your room. Tiu, my personal hostess joined me for lunch. As she says “eating is an activity” – we embarked on the food safari which started off with a cucumber roll with peanut butter satay. This was followed by the main course – the Zambezi Basket filled with an assortment of platters. And yes, there was still dessert after all that! In the afternoon I tried my hand at fishing. I must say, this amateur angler armed with a fishing rod and bait (with Elijah, a senior guide, kindly hooking the worm for me) found the activity quite relaxing. Luck was on my side, as within five minutes a small Chessa took the bait. Thrilled with my catch, I decided it was time to go after the big boys—Tiger Fish. Elijah baited the hook with a piece of fish we had brought from camp. The line was cast – then we waited. This time we waited a bit longer but luck was definitely in our boat. Thirty minutes later I caught a fair sized Vundu. After celebrating and taking a couple of pictures, we put the little guy back in the water.
The following morning after breakfast with Kufa, the bubbly General Manager of Lolebezi, I went on a tour of the various spaces at the lodge including the gym and spa. The health-conscious guests will appreciate the Kitchen Cafe, which offers a variety of freshly squeezed juices and a delightful smoothie menu, including the option to create your own custom smoothie. Another boat ride upstream took me to Chiawa Camp for a site visit. On arrival, there was an elephant with her young one at the main area eating pods. After waiting in the boat for 15 minutes, the coast was clear and I proceeded to the main area. I was met by Simon who took me on a quick tour of the camp. I absolutely loved the Star Bed Tower which has beautiful panoramic views, plus the bathroom is on the same level as the rest of the “room”. After lunch, it was on to Chongwe Camp for a site visit.
As we approached Chongwe Camp by boat, I was amused by the hive of activity on the lush green riverbank directly across from the camp. It was teeming with impala, baboons and different types of birds all caught up in their own little world of foraging for food – everyone minding their own business. Nezzy, a hostess, welcomed me at the dock and led me to the main area, where both guests and staff were engrossed in watching a large elephant bull enjoying what some guests called “his biscuits” – acacia pods. The elephant was very close to the main area and was certainly not in a hurry to finish eating his afternoon snack. He casually picked up one pod at a time and popped it into his mouth. Nezzy and I quietly crept away so she could give me a tour. Each tent overlooks the river and has an outdoor seating area, as well as an open-air shower offering lovely views of the surrounding scenery – there’s no chance of missing any wildlife action while you’re in the shower! The camp has a swimming pool that’s strategically positioned to capture the warmth of the African sun, ensuring the water is always just the right temperature.
My last stop was Royal Zambezi Lodge which is 15-minutes drive from Chongwe River Camp. The lodge is beautifully set with all the rooms overlooking the river. Each room has a private plunge pool and a verandah. After settling in, I sat in the verandah and watched a hippo grazing just below accompanied by some Little Egrets. After afternoon tea, Yona who is hailed as the best fishing guide was available to take me on a river cruise or for fishing. I decided to try fishing again, but with the full moon the night before and the current stirred up by a few passing boats, we didn't have any luck. Instead, I enjoyed a relaxing scenic cruise as we drifted downstream to the lodge. The river is a birders paradise – we spotted a variety of species including the Blacksmith Lapwing, African Jacana, Sacred Ibis, Pied Kingfisher, White-fronted Bee Eater, and Reed Cormorant, among others. I’m fascinated by sunsets. I love all things sunsets and am always in awe of the stunning hues that creation paints across the sky. With each passing minute, an amazing slide show of oranges, purples and greys unfolds. The next day, with bags packed, it was time to say goodbye. I was transferred to Royal Airstrip for my lunchtime flight to Lusaka. I often reflect on my trip to Lower Zambezi with fond memories.
Sorry, we can’t seem to find any matches.
