South Luangwa National Park

By: Joleen Riley-Hawkins

My bags were packed and all was set for my trip to South Luangwa.  Arriving off the evening flight from Lusaka, my first stop was Nkwali Camp, just a 40-minute drive from Mfuwe Airport.  The camp has spacious chalets with open fronts that provide lovely views of the river.  This openness allows for maximum airflow, creating a cool and comfortable environment.  The communal dinner, hosted by Kiki, the manager and senior guide, was wonderful, with lively conversations around the table.  We even had the resident hippo, casually stroll by as he mowed the grass around the property.

In the morning, I had breakfast on the deck overlooking the river, watching elephants and hippos start their day, while chatting with Rob, a director and longtime guide.  On my way out of Nkwali, I had a chance to sneak a peak at Robins House – a quaint 2-bedoom private house on the riverbank, that has a spacious outdoor seating area and a private plunge pool. Thank you to Rob, Kiki, Sarel and the Nkwali team for your amazing hospitality.

My next stop was Nsefu, a charming and historic camp.  I felt privileged to spend a night at the first safari camp in South Luangwa, established in the 1950s.  Daudi, the manager and guide, along with hostess Mulonga, welcomed me on arrival.  The camp is situated in the game-rich plains of the Nsefu Sector.  On our afternoon game drive with Nyambe, a knowledgeable guide, we spotted a variety of wildlife, including an Eland and a pack of six wild dogs lounging in the shade.

En route to Tafika Camp the following morning, I made a quick stop at Tena Tena and was welcomed by Bessie, who showed me around the charming camp nestled beneath Mahogany trees.  The tents, with clear views of the Luangwa River, have spacious, open-air bathrooms that provide scenic views of the surrounding area.  I love the clever design of the main area, which offers plenty of seating spaces that allow for private time without feeling pressured to socialize or being confined to the tent.

Tafika Camp, a luxurious owner-run bush camp, has an authentically traditional feel, designed and built with natural materials.  Jen and Nick are great hosts, they sat with us during brunch.  For all the health-conscious foodies, this little camp offers excellent cuisine, with an amazing selection of fresh vegetables (and succulent papaya), all grown in the gardens at the back of the camp.  I was amused by the unique signal for dinner – stepping onto the verandah and waving a solar light. If you're not afraid to embrace your inner child, you could even do a little dance while waving the light. 😊   On the afternoon drive with our guide Stephen, we headed to the Salt Pans and were lucky to see a leopard lounging in a leafless tree.  Soon after, we spotted the Salt Pan Pride of lions taking an afternoon siesta.  We also learned about the local flora, including wild jasmine and poison rope tree. The drive ended with sundowners at a spot with a natural hot spring.  On the morning drive prior to heading on to Lion Camp, we had a wonderful sighting of a large pride of lionesses and their cubs, the Nsefu Pride. 

Lion Camp is luxury in the bush.  Vicky, Wayne, Dottie, and the team add a warm ambiance to the camp.  The thatched canvas suites each have a deck with spectacular views of wildlife that come to drink at the river.  I spent my siesta on the verandah, watching a variety of activities – the highlights of my armchair safari were two elephant bulls jostling in the river below, and a male puku trying his luck with the females.  The spacious ensuite rooms are equipped with evening breeze cooling unit, which is a delight on hot summer nights.  The camp has a hide below the main deck, allowing guests to safely explore on their own. After breakfast the following day, I decided to visit the hide while waiting for my transfer to Mwamba Camp. The experience was exhilarating as I saw elephants, birds, and other wildlife up close.

Mwamba Camp is an intimate little haven of four spacious chalets with outdoor bathrooms, which were enhanced following the refurbishment.  Emma, the wonderful camp manager and hostess, escorted me to a secluded hide, perfect for game viewing, as the nearby lagoon attracts various wildlife. The camp also has an elevated hide, ideal for photography and sundowners.  As is the norm in most camps, brunch is followed by siesta – mine was quite the interesting one.  A young elephant bull chose my chalet as the perfect spot for a gardenia snack and a nap.  I didn’t get much rest as all I could hear was the heavy breathing of the sleeping giant who had wedged himself between a tree and the chalet! On the afternoon drive, the lions put on quite a show as a standoff over a kill unfolded between the Mwamba-Kaingo Pride and the Nsefu Pride, who had crossed into the Mwamba area.  Amidst the scuffle between the lionesses, two Hollywood male lions watched the drama.  At Mwamba, there is no chance of missing the delicious meals, as meal times are signalled by lively and upbeat drumming.

After saying goodbye to the lovely Mwamba team, I headed to Kaingo, the sister camp for a site visit with Reuben, the Operations Manager.  On the way, we stopped at the Carmine Bee-eater Hide, a great spot for birdwatching, and then continued to Hippo Hide.  Along the way, we were lucky to spot about seven lions from the Mwamba Pride, enjoying a nap.  Hippo Hide is exclusive to Kaingo guests and offers a two-tier hide right on the banks of the Luangwa River, providing photographers with close-up shots of hippo activity.  Our final stop was the Elephant Hide/Sleep Out platform, a must-visit for elephant lovers, offering an incredible view of the area's elephant activity. Cally, the cheerful manager, welcomed me to Kaingo Camp and gave me a tour of the camp before I headed out on a 1 hour 45-minute drive from Kaingo to Nkonzi in a closed, air-conditioned 4x4, which was a welcome relief from the day's heat.

Nkonzi, the local name for Lichtenstein's hartebeest, is a small, rustic, owner-run bush camp located in a remote area of the park, north of the main gate.  Being the only camp in this part of the park, it really offers a private experience.  The camp is ideal for safari enthusiasts who are after a down-to-earth, authentic safari.  Adding to the uniqueness of the experience, Gavin, the owner and seasoned guide, often leads the walking safaris and game drives. Afternoon activities usually end with relaxing sundowner stops, to unwind and enjoy drinks while watching the sunset.  On this occasion, it was a sundowner with an adrenaline rush as a startled hippo ran out of his pool, up the bank and in our direction.  Gavin and the parks scout, both experienced professionals, quickly ordered everyone back into the vehicle.  With all guests safely on the vehicle, the two kept a close eye on the hippo, who after taking a look at us sauntered off into the bushes.  We then disembarked and finally enjoyed our drinks while taking in the beautiful sunset.  The following morning, after a short walking safari and a lovely bush breakfast, Gavin transferred me to Time+Tide Luwi, where my site visits of the Time+Tide bush camps began.

Time+Tide Luwi is a remote bush camp located in the western sector of the park.  It is nestled in an area rich with Mahogany trees and offers views of a floodplain.  The safari tents have open-air bathrooms, adding to the authentic bush camp experience.  Time+Tide Nsolo, located in the western sector along the seasonal Luwi River, has five grass-walled, thatched rooms set on raised wooden decks.  Each room has an open-air bathroom and a private verandah with scenic views of the surrounding landscape. Time+Tide Kakuli is located in the eastern sector of the park, the camp consists of five cosy grass chalets, each with indoor and outdoor showers, as well as a private verandah.  One of this camp's unique offerings is seasonal boating, available during the green season. Luwi combined with Nsolo, Mchenja, and Kakuli creates an unforgettable adventure, especially for walking safari enthusiasts who have the unique opportunity to walk from one camp to the next.

After the site visits of the Time+Tide bush camps, I was more than ready to unwind and enjoy a relaxing afternoon at Time+Tide Mchenja.  After a delicious lunch with the manager Raphael, I spent a leisurely afternoon in the main area, listening to the hippos in the river below, watching a variety of birds, and small elephant family, consisting of two cows and four sub-adults that were digging for fresh water along the riverbank.  The rooms are open at the front giving unobstructed views of the river, whilst allowing a cooling breeze to flow through.  The rooms also have outdoor bathrooms, as well as indoor tubs for added comfort.

En route to Kafunta River Lodge, I stopped at Time+Tide Chinzombo for a site visit and enjoyed lunch with the camp manager, Gogo.  The luxurious camp features spacious suites with modern amenities.  Each suite has a large deck with an infinity pool, ideal for private dining, which the camp offers for guests seeking a more secluded experience.

Kafunta River Lodge, an owner-run lodge, offers great value for money, good food, and has friendly staff.  The lodge has incredible views overlooking the floodplain, making the main area a great place for an armchair safari, as guests can enjoy wildlife activity and beautiful sunsets from the various seating spaces. Sunset House has to be my favourite part of the lodge – it’s perfect for families and small groups as it provides a private experience with its own butler, guide and dining.  On the morning of my departure, I had the chance to spend time with Anke, co-owner of the lodge—thank you for the warm hospitality, and special thanks to hostess Betty.

After eight nights in the extremely warm valley, I was looking forward to heading home.  A key advantage of the summer season is that wildlife is easily spotted out in the open unobstructed by thickets. The scarcity of food and water sources draw wildlife to areas with resources.  During this trip, we easily spotted four different lion prides, a couple of leopards, numerous giraffes, and many other animal species.  South Luangwa National Park is a must-visit destination! The predator activity and prolific birdlife, make it an ideal place for wildlife lovers, photographers and first-time safari goers.