Mana Pools National Park

By: Karen Seaman

I was delighted when Emma asked if I would like to go on an educational trip to Mana Pools and Hwange. For me, it was a chance to visit “two old friends” that I had not seen for a while. I started my trip with a road transfer from Lusaka to Chirundu, and while the transfer takes 3 hours, Paul from Tours Africa kept me entertained, and the time flew by.

Once we arrived at the Chirundu Border Post, which is a “one-stop border post,” Tours Africa handed me over to Paul from the Mana Pools Transfer Company in the car park. Paul from Mana Pools Transfer Company then escorted me into the Immigration Building where I got my Zimbabwe visa. It was then a short drive to the Mana Pools Transfer Company Jetty and then a 2-hour transfer by riverboat to Nyamepi (Mana Pools Main Camp).

My transfer was in an 8-seater boat with a shaded canopy, which I was very grateful for as the October sun was beating down. While this was a transfer, the skipper slowed down to allow me to take photos of the hippos, elephants, and other animals we saw on the river bank. There was also water and soft drinks on board to keep me hydrated.

As we approached the jetty at Nyamepi, it was nice to see the African Bush Camps safari vehicle waiting under a tree for me to arrive to take me to Nyamatusi Camp, the first camp on my itinerary. What a camp to start with! The staff and my guide were wonderful, and the food was fantastic—I even got a peek at the wine cellar! In the heat of the October sun, the plunge pool on the deck of my tent was very welcome, as was the AC which sits inside the mosquito netting, so a cool night’s sleep was assured. Also, being able to open up the tent in the afternoon to catch the breeze was great. This camp deserves its 5 stars.

The next day, it was onto another African Bush Camps property, Zambezi Expeditions. It may not have Nyamatusi Camp’s plunge pool, AC, or a wine cellar, but the staff here made me feel so incredibly welcome. The tents have fans, and here you have the feeling of really being connected to nature. I have to say I was blown away by how friendly and welcoming everyone was. I wish I could have stayed longer; however, the next day I was on the move again, this time to Vundu Camp.

Vundu Camp is run by Nick and Des Murray, and while I stayed only one night, the camp was very relaxed and friendly. The accommodation was comfortable, and my chalet was large with both an indoor and outdoor bathroom and situated right on the river. I had the pleasure of staying in the same chalet as Sir David Attenborough when he stayed here to film the Dynasties Painted Wolf episodes. The guiding here is very special, and my guide Blade has left me with many memorable encounters I will never forget. We even managed to see Boswell (Zimbabwe’s most famous bull elephant, famous for standing on his hind legs to reach high-up branches). Also, while walking, we found a family of wild dogs, so we just sat down and spent some time with them, which was very special.

Then it was on to Wilderness Ruckomechi Camp for my last night in Mana Pools. I was excited to visit this camp as I have booked many guests here and had great feedback. The camp is situated on the Zambezi River in a private concession to the west of the park. The luxury suites have no air conditioning but do have ceiling fans, and the hospitality and food here was terrific. The guiding was top-class! My guide was still working towards his walking qualifications, which meant we were not able to get out of the vehicle and walk, but this did not stop us from finding great game. It was while staying here that I was able to cross leopard off my list, which was very exciting. As the camp is on a private concession, we were able to do a night drive, stopping at a waterhole for a late sundowner with elephants walking past us on their way to the waterhole—a great way to end my time in Mana Pools.

What to say about Mana Pools National Park? It is located along the Zambezi River bordering with Zambia and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I saw all the big game while here. It is one of the only places in the world where you can see elephants standing on their hind legs, reaching high into the acacia trees looking for winter fruit. But it is the remoteness of the park that gets you, and no matter how often you have visited Africa, at Mana Pools you still get a true sense of wilderness.