Places: A Journey Through Victoria Falls and Hwange

6 June 2026

By: Emma Seaman

At the beginning of April, I had the pleasure of visiting Victoria Falls and Hwange with one of our wonderful agents from the United States. Having agents experience the camps firsthand is always incredibly valuable and on a personal level, it’s also great fun to travel with someone, visit different properties together, and share memorable moments along the way.

Our journey began in Victoria Falls, where we spent our first night at Ilala Lodge Hotel. From the moment we arrived, we received a warm welcome from Assistant Manager Jane and General Manager Heather, while Allan from the front office made check-in smooth and effortless.

Later that afternoon, we headed over to Elephant’s Walk for a bit of shopping and, of course, a coffee stop. It’s always a lovely place to browse, and we enjoyed wandering through the shops and soaking up the atmosphere.

We had dinner at Baines Restaurant, beautifully positioned overlooking the upper Zambezi rapids. The sound of the rushing water, combined with the glow of sunset, created a truly magical setting. Sitting there as the sun dipped below the horizon, listening to the power of the river, made for an unforgettable evening. It was one of those experiences that stays with you. 

The following morning, after a leisurely breakfast on the Terrace of Ilala Lodge's Cassia Restaurant, listening to the thundering of the Victoria Falls in the distance, we were collected by our driver from Matetsi and transferred to Matetsi Victoria Falls for an overnight stay.

From the moment we arrived, it was clear that Matetsi offers something very special. The setting of the lodge on the Zambezi River, the hospitality of the staff, the exceptional guiding, the luxurious suites, and the incredible attention to detail all combined to create a remarkable experience. Every aspect of the guest journey felt thoughtfully considered, from the personalized menus to the warm and genuine service. The lodge features a 4 bedroom private villa, 2 Family Suites and 16 River suites and is divided into East and West Camps, each with its own main area. This thoughtful layout creates the feel of a smaller, more intimate camp while still offering all the facilities and comforts of a luxury lodge. Golf buggies are available to transport guests to and from their suites, making it easy to navigate the property.

The suites are incredibly spacious, with luxurious en-suite bathrooms with indoor and outdoor showers and a huge bath and private decks complete with plunge pools. The views over the Zambezi River are simply stunning, and the thoughtful in-room touches—including delicious treats such as freshly made popcorn and millionaire's shortbread—were hard to resist.

That afternoon, we headed out onto the Zambezi River for a safari with our guides, Gift and Jonathan. Exploring the river by boat offers a completely different perspective of the area, and we thoroughly enjoyed spending time with them, learning more about the river and Matetsi's private concession while taking in the beautiful scenery and wildlife along the banks.

As if the day couldn’t get any better, we ended it with a spectacular bush dinner. The setting was beautifully lit with lanterns, creating a magical atmosphere under the African sky. It was one of those evenings that perfectly captures the romance and charm of a safari experience.

The next morning brought another highlight. Sara Gardiner, one of the co-founders of Matetsi, joined us for breakfast. We spent a relaxed morning sitting on the riverbank, enjoying delicious coffee, a wonderful meal, and engaging conversations about the lodge and their conservation projects. The Matetsi Private Game Reserve encompasses a 55,000-hectare (136,000-acre) private wildlife concession. More than 50 highly-trained scouts are employed to patrol the reserve and this dedicated anti-poaching and conservation team—known as the Amaganyane unit—operates around the clock to protect the local wildlife and habitat, removing illegal snares and fishing nets. It was wonderful to learn more about this first hand from Sara.

Before departing for the airport, Sara kindly took us on a tour of the rest of the property, including the main swimming pool, spa, gym, gift shop and the incredible wine cellar. One particularly unique feature of the cellar is the collection of toys belonging to her father John Gardiner, which adds a wonderfully personal touch and makes the space even more memorable.

We were then transferred by road to the airport for our flight to Manga Airstrip in Hwange. Upon arrival, we were met by our guide, James, a wonderful young man with a wealth of knowledge and a gift for storytelling. From the moment we met him, we knew we were in good hands. We enjoyed a game drive transfer through the park to Somalisa Camp, a journey of around 30 minutes that offered our first taste of the incredible wildlife and landscapes that Hwange is famous for. Our arrival at Somalisa was made even more memorable by the incredible number of elephants we encountered en route. It was the perfect introduction to Hwange and a wonderful reminder that in Africa, wildlife always has the right of way.

On arrival at camp, we received a warm welcome from Assistant Manager Emmanuel, Camp Manager Gwinyai, and Sam, our hostess during our stay. Sam was an absolute delight—full of energy, always smiling, and only too happy to assist with any request, no matter how small. We were also well looked after by front of house staff ND and Bridget.

After settling in, we were shown to our rooms. One detail that I absolutely loved was the pillow menu waiting on the bed. Guests can choose their preferred pillow, which is then brought to the room to ensure a comfortable night’s sleep. It’s such a simple touch, but one that really reflects the thought and care that goes into the guest experience.

Following a light lunch, we enjoyed a short afternoon siesta before heading out on our afternoon game drive with James.

The wildlife sightings did not disappoint. We were fortunate to see elephants, lions, giraffe, gemsbok, roan antelope, zebra and Kudu and throughout the drive James shared fascinating insights about the park and its wildlife. What made his guiding particularly special was his deep personal connection to Hwange. Having grown up in the area and spent his entire life there, his passion for the national park was evident in every story he told.

The following morning was wonderfully relaxed. We enjoyed breakfast at camp while watching elephants gather at the famous elephant pool directly in front of the main area. Seeing these magnificent animals drinking, bathing, and interacting with one another from the comfort of camp was an incredibly special experience and one that guests never tire of.

After a delicious pizza lunch, Sam walked us over to Somalisa Acacia, the camp’s family-friendly sister property located adjacent to the main camp. Small, intimate, and thoughtfully designed, it is the perfect option for families. The camp features its own private swimming pool for guests, as well as an elephant pool that attracts wildlife throughout the day. There are plenty of games and activities to keep younger guests entertained, and the two spacious family units have been exceptionally well designed to cater to families travelling together.

That afternoon, we enjoyed another wonderful game drive with James, whose passion and knowledge of Hwange continued to impress us. One of the most exciting moments of the afternoon came when we followed a group of lionesses as they carefully stalked a roan antelope. For a few minutes, it looked as though we might witness a hunt unfold before our eyes. In the end, the lioness was unsuccessful and the roan escaped. Whether that was unfortunate or fortunate depends on your perspective, but the roan certainly lived to see another day.

We returned to camp in time for a relaxed evening, reflecting on another memorable day spent in this remarkable corner of Zimbabwe.

The following morning after breakfast we left Somalisa and met up with our Wilderness guide at Ngweshla Picnic Site before continuing our journey south through the park towards the Linkwasha Concession. Along the way, we were treated to one of my personal highlights of the trip—two beautiful cheetahs. Cheetahs have always been a favourite of mine, and because they can be quite elusive, I rarely get the opportunity to spend time with them. Seeing these two was a moment I won’t soon forget.

The drive to Linkwasha was fairly long, but the landscapes changed constantly, offering beautiful views and plenty of wildlife along the way. Upon arrival at Wilderness Linkwasha, we were greeted warmly by Tawanda, Tee and Big T, who immediately made us feel welcome and at home. A delicious al fresco lunch was served to us, which was followed by a well earned siesta. The Linkwasha Tents are a real treat. Spacious and open fronted with incredible views of the plains. Each tent features a minibar, tea and coffee-making facilities, and air conditioning, ensuring a comfortable stay while still feeling connected to the surrounding wilderness. After a delicious tea (more food!), we headed out on a game drive with our guide, Josh, into the Ngamo Plains area. Along the way we also learnt that guests can be taken into Ngamo Village and school for a cultural experience. The school is supported through Children in the Wilderness and the camp also buy their vegetables from the village farm.

The Ngamo plains are truly spectacular and absolutely teeming with wildlife. Everywhere we looked there seemed to be animals. We saw large numbers of giraffe, wildebeest, and countless elephants as well as sable and ostrich which are a real treat. As the afternoon drew to a close, we stopped for sundowners before making our way back to camp. A lovely dinner was served out on the deck, and after a long but wonderful day, an early night was exactly what we needed.  A special touch was returning to the room to find a farewell note and a beautiful Wilderness Kikoy.

The following morning began with another delicious breakfast. One of the things I particularly enjoyed at Linkwasha was the breakfast setup, where the chef prepares your breakfast exactly to your liking on a grill. It’s a relaxed and personal touch that makes the start of the day feel extra special.

Unfortunately, it was then time to make our way to the airstrip for our flight back to Victoria Falls. Here I said a sad goodbye to Phoebe, who was continuing her journey into Botswana to visit additional camps, while I returned to Victoria Falls for my final night at Waterfalls Lodge.

I was delighted to finally experience the lodge firsthand. We have already sent a number of guests there, and I was keen to see it for myself. I certainly wasn’t disappointed. From the moment I arrived, the check-in process felt personal, professional, and genuinely welcoming.

The rooms are thoughtfully designed—simple but extremely comfortable, with everything a guest needs for a relaxing stay. The beds were wonderfully comfortable, the bathrooms spacious, and the shower excellent. I also loved the small private garden area outside the rooms, which creates a peaceful and relaxing atmosphere.

That evening, I enjoyed a delicious dinner of Korean ribs in the main restaurant, where I was very well looked after by the team. After a good night’s sleep, I enjoyed breakfast the following morning before being collected by my Wild Horizons driver for my cross-border transfer to Livingstone Airport and my flight home.

Looking back, it was a truly wonderful six-night journey. Trips like these are incredibly valuable. Not only do they allow us to strengthen relationships with our partners and experience new properties, but they also serve as an important reminder of what our guests experience when they travel with us. It is very easy to become caught up in emails, paperwork, and the day-to-day demands of office life. Spending time in the bush, meeting the people who make these experiences possible, and seeing everything through a guest’s eyes is invaluable.

I returned home feeling inspired, grateful, and even more passionate about sharing these incredible destinations with our guests. I returned home feeling inspired, grateful, and even more passionate about sharing these incredible destinations with our guests. From the mighty Zambezi River, to the elephant-filled landscapes of Hwange and the vast wildlife-rich plains surrounding Linkwasha, this journey was a wonderful reminder of just how special this part of Africa truly is.

Victoria Falls and Hwange never disappoint, and after six unforgettable nights spent exploring both, I left with a renewed appreciation for the people, wildlife, and experiences that make this region so remarkable.

 

Baines Restaurant Matetsi River Suite Millionaires Shortbread Matetsi Lunch Chameleon on Night Drive Wine Cellar Matetsi Elephant Somalisa Emma and Phoebe Somalisa Acacia Tent Tea at Linkwasha Wilderness Linkwasha Wilderness Ngamo Plains Sable Waterfalls Flight over the Victoria Falls Breakfast a la Linkwasha

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