Hwange National Park

By: Tendai Bushe

My adventure to Bumbusi Camp began at 10 a.m. Victoria Falls, where I said goodbye to colleagues after our team-building retreat and set off on the long journey into Hwange. At Robins Turnoff, I met Ndaba from Nantwich Lodge, who transferred me to Nantwich Gate, where Taffy, my guide for the next 24 hours, was waiting. Although I knew the journey would be lengthy, nothing quite prepares you for the vastness of Hwange. The final stretch was a slow, bumpy drive through the park and into the private concession that Bumbusi calls home. Thankfully, conversations with the various guides and drivers along the way made the hours pass quickly.

I arrived in camp at around 3 p.m. A team of gentlemen greeted me with warm smiles and a refreshing handwashing station, which I appreciated after a long trip. Terry, the relief manager and someone who has been involved with the camp since its inception, introduced me to the property and shared some of its history. With no other guests in camp, Bumbusi felt wonderfully personal, as though the entire wilderness had been reserved just for me. After a generous high tea featuring savoury treats, fresh fruit and a glass of "elephant milk tea” with a special ingredient, Taffy and I headed out for the afternoon. My goal was to explore what makes Bumbusi so unique: its remarkable cultural and historical heritage.

Hidden among the hills are ancient kingdom ruins and fascinating petroglyphs—rock carvings that have survived for centuries in the sandstone. Standing before them, Taffy passionately explained the various symbols and animal tracks carved into the rock face. Among them was an enormous human footprint carving that continues to spark debate and speculation because the San people are small in stature. The true stories behind these carvings may never be known, but as Africans, storytelling has always been central to preserving history. Looking at them, I imagined generations gathered around fires, sharing knowledge, recounting hunts and passing lessons to the next generation. Whatever their original purpose, they remain powerful reminders that African history stretches far beyond the written word. If you cannot already tell, I am a history buff and I am particularly fascinated by African History.

On our way to the ancient kingdom site, Taffy pointed out one of the area's most intriguing mysteries: the sacred baobab tree. While neighbouring trees bear scars from elephants and often lose their fruit, this particular baobab remains untouched and continues to hold fruit year-round. Local stories suggest it stands above an ancient burial site of thousands of Nambya people, a place so significant that both people and animals instinctively respect it. Nearby lie the remains of the ancient Nambya Kingdom itself. Walking among the ruins, Taffy brought the past to life with stories of migrations, rivalries, power struggles and royal succession disputes. The tales felt almost Shakespearean, except the stage was set against rolling hills, open plains and endless African skies.

Next up, we climbed up a hill for sundowners and I was met with a gorgeous view. Bumbusi is on the edge of the park so all I could see from up there was the Hwange stretching endlessly towards the horizon. Unfortunately, after a full day on the road, my phone died, leaving me unable to capture the view to share with you but it allowed me to just be in the moment. With a G&T in hand, I looked out and said to Taffy, “as far as the eyes can see” – it was a lion king moment for sure and the view is etched in my memory forever.

Back in camp, Chef Sonic delivered another highlight of the day. A beautifully presented dinner, which melted in my mouth. He presented the meals and thoughtfully paired our dinner with a glass of Chardonnay. Terry joined me for the evening, and conversation flowed easily jumping from one topic to another. With my belly full and my eyes low I retreated to my room and fell into a deep sleep. The following morning, I rose early for the journey to Nantwich Lodge. Chef Sonic ensured I wouldn't go hungry, sending me off with fruit, a freshly made sandwich, and not one but two pain au chocolat for the road. A small gesture that perfectly sums up Bumbusi: thoughtful, generous, and quietly memorable. Although my stay was only one night, it was worth it. I experienced the journey guests undertake to reach this remote part of Hwange, gained a better understanding of the landscape and wildlife viewing opportunities, enjoyed exceptional hospitality, and discovered a rich history of the area.

On arrival at Nantwich Lodge, a team of smiling women welcomed me into the main area where a small selection of cordials had been laid out for me to create a welcome drink, to my taste. I sat down for my orientation and the management team stopped by to introduce themselves and welcome me. My host Daphne’s warm smile and her knowledge of Zambia and our languages made me feel right at home. As she went through the day-to-day schedule and rules of the lodge, I learned something that immediately caught my attention. Nantwich experiences so much wildlife activity, particularly during peak season, that guests are not permitted to walk unaccompanied to their rooms at any time of day and transfers by vehicle are most recommended. It's one of those small details that quietly reminds you that this is still very much wild Africa.

After a tour of my room and the lodge facilities, including a beautiful pool area overlooking the surrounding wilderness, I settled in for lunch. The kitchen at Nantwich is open, allowing guests to watch Chef Tawanda at work. After my delicious lunch, I briefly considered an afternoon siesta but I decided a soak in the outdoor bathtub under the open sky would be a far better use of my downtime than a quick nap.

My guide at Nantwich was Ndaba—who I had already met during my transfer to Bumbusi. When I travel at the beginning of the season, I always take the slow approach to safari. Hwange is still recovering from the extended rainy season; water was so plentiful the wildlife spread across a much larger area. While many visitors arrive hoping for dramatic predator sightings, early season rewards patience and curiosity. There is often more time to appreciate the smaller details that you may miss when you are hyper focused on the big things. That said, we set off hoping to see cats but for me, seeing elephants makes a safari. Our first elephant was not particularly photogenic giving us a back view with evidence of a working digestive system! I kept hope up for a better ellie sighting but enjoyed the birds, the antelopes and everything else along the way. We stopped for sundowners on a viewing point and got the privilege to watch elephants emerge and make their way to drink below us. There was no rush, no noise, and no need for conversation. Just elephants moving through the landscape and enjoying their drink as I enjoyed mine. It was beyond special and I happily headed back to camp for the night.

Ndaba had dinner with me and we chatted through bites of delicious food and sips of wine. We spoke about history, culture, travel, conservation, family and ubuntu. Aside from game viewing and game knowledge a good guide is a people person. I always appreciate guides who can comfortably move between different topics because it speaks to their ability to connect with their guests on an individual level.

The following morning, we set off early for a half-day game drive. Guests can also opt for full-day excursions to explore more remote corners of Hwange, but our focus was on discovering the areas around Nantwich. Before heading into the park, we stopped at a small piece of local history- the grave of Percy Durban Crewe, a British traveller who originally arrived hoping to find gold. Instead, he fell in love with Vuvuka, the daughter of the king and married her. The king gifted them the land on which Nantwich now stands. Stanley, a trainee guide, joined us for the day. Watching him absorb every lesson reminded me that every expert starts somewhere. It took me back to my own days as an intern ten years ago and highlighted how important it is for experienced guides to pass their knowledge on to the next generation.

While other vehicles focused on finding lions, we spent part of the morning searching for cheetah. We found tracks and we found droppings - plenty of evidence that they had recently passed through but the elegant cats remained elusive! On the flip side we found Big Tom, a resident lion who had only recently returned to the area after spending the rainy season elsewhere. We discovered him exactly where lions seem happiest—resting comfortably in the shade. We had the sighting entirely to ourselves, and I studied his beautiful mane and big paws before sharing his location with the other vehicles. Ndaba explained that he is part of a pride although his family has not been spotted back in the area yet.

Back at camp, a full brunch was waiting for me. I was treated to a feast of deliciousness and the foodie in me was happily trying all the different dishes. After brunch, I went to the hide and sat quietly watching a few hippos. The hide is a great spot for guests to spend downtime and I can imagine it teeming with game during the dry season when animals are drawn to the pumped waterhole. The afternoon was wonderfully relaxed. I caught up on emails beside the pool and dipped my feet into the water. The winter sun was warm, but a cool breeze held me back from fully committing to a dip.

Later, we ventured out on another game drive and used a different route to explore more of the area including a beautiful salt pan. On our way to sundowners, we decided to pass by the area we saw Big Tom and sure enough we found him. We parked nearby and watched as he slowly became more active, occasionally letting out low grumbles. Ndaba whispered to Stanley that he hoped the lion would let out a mighty roar but with park closing time approaching, we knew we couldn't wait forever. Then, almost as if he felt our desperation for action Big Tom stood up and delivered a deep, rolling roar. The sound reverberated through the vehicle and echoed across the park. We often hear lion calls at a distance but to be right in front of him as he bellowed was truly magical. I hope his family heard him and make their way to him soon!

My final evening was hosted by Ed, the lodge manager, and once again conversation flowed effortlessly. Chef Tawanda prepared a perfectly cooked steak paired with Cabernet Sauvignon, and the staff's attention to detail continued to impress. The previous night, I skipped dessert because I am very picky with sweets and they noticed that and offered me fruits as an alternative. Even on morning drives they packed fruits instead of muffins and cookies for me. It's one of those small details that make a big difference and speak volumes about the level of care that goes into the guest experience. I got up bright and early the next day to enjoy a final coffee by the fireplace before the Nantwich team gathered to sing a heartfelt Ndebele farewell song to send me off!

Overall, I had a jam packed 3-night experience in Hwange. Bumbusi Camp and Nantwich Lodge offer two completely different yet beautifully complementary experiences of Hwange and I am so glad I got to experience both. Hideaways have created two experiences that capture the soul of this remarkable Park of Zimbabwe and the guest experience is perfected by passionate guides, attentive hosts and thoughtful teams who go above and beyond to create meaningful experiences.